Precision Blackwork

Techniques by Leon Conrad

Beginners' Hints and Tips

When using a fine thread, try knotting one end in the eye of your needle. This will keep the thread from slipping and eliminate rough patches caused by friction.

For precision blackwork, mount your fabric on a backing cloth (e.g. thin cotton batiste, shirting, lawn or fine calico), and stitch through both thicknesses. You will then be able to bring your thread up and down exactly where you want it and know that it will stay there.

Aim to achieve a stitched line which looks as much as possible like a pen-drawn line. To do so, use a small, sharp needle and be prepared to split the thread you are working with if necessary. To avoid a bulge, split the thread away from the centre. Usually, catching up to a third of the width of the thread with your needle works well.

Starting

Start with an 'away knot', leaving a long end up to 3 times as long as your needle. Work this tidily into the back of your work when you finish, using one of the techniques described below.

Finishing

On the back of your work, following the line your stitching has taken, take your thread through the middle of the fabric threads which lie on top of (rather than go underneath) the ones at right angles to them at a given intersection below your work.
On the back of your work, use a Running Stitch to stitch the end of your thread along and through the thread you have used, or a neighbouring thick outline thread if available.

Commonly used stitches

Running Stitch - use this for pattern darning, or in 'dashed line' type filling patterns.

Double Running Stitch (also known as Holbein Stitch, or Spanish Stitch) - use this for continuous line work, and reversible blackwork.

Running Back Stitch - use this to avoid shadowing when going round corners, or for ease of working when following a complex pattern.

Other straight line stitches, such as Back Stitch, can also be used in Blackwork, and there is nothing to stop you switching between different kinds of stitches as you stitch. Aim to make your work as precise, neat and even as possible on the front. Not all blackwork is reversible - and if you use a backing fabric on a non-reversible piece, you can get a way with running a thin thread along the back of your work, as it is unlikely that it will show through the double thickness of fabric once the piece is mounted.

Checklist

The type and quality of the materials you use, fabric and stitch tension, direction of travel from stitch to stitch, the point at which you decide to split a thread, and the point at which you decide to bring your needle up or down through your fabric(s), amongst other things, will all contribute to the final look of your piece.

Further information on Blackwork technique can be found in the following books available from Leon Conrad Designs:

Blackwork Embroidery: My Methods and Techniques by Jack Robinson
Why Call it Blackwork? by Marion Scoular