Stitch Library
Hemstitch (evenweave only)
Hemstitch is a versatile stitch allowing you to hem a raw edge, form a folded hem or remove horizontal threads from the fabric leaving the vertical threads to be decorated.
Hemstitching a raw edge
Work a straight stitch across two threads, turning the needle to face horizontally. Make another straight stitch at right angles to the first, then pass the needle diagonally under two threads. Repeat the straight stitches along the row, counting carefully. After the hemstitching is complete, the threads indicated may be cut away.
Hemstitching a folded hem
1. Count out 10 fabric threads from the stitching on all edges and mark these positions with pins. On each side, cut the tenth (marked) fabric thread at its centre, unweave the cut thread back to the corners and re-weave back in to the fabric (diagram 1).
2. Score the fabric so you can make straight folds without pressing, as follows. Count out 9 threads from the missing one on each side, lay the fabric on a hard surface and place the blunt end of a fairly large tapestry needle (22–20) in the groove between threads 9 and 10. Pull the fabric under the needle (rather than the needle over the fabric), pressing firmly on the needle and pulling hard. Repeat to make another line a further 9 threads out (diagram 2). The linen now makes a straight fold at the scorings (washing is necessary to remove these folds).
Count out another 7 threads and cut very carefully between threads 7 and 8 (diagram 2).
Handle the linen carefully from now on to prevent fraying.
3. Fold in the corners and cut as shown in diagram 3
4. Fold in all the edges and you will find that the corners are mitred. Pin or tack the hem in place. Hemstitch all sides (diagram 4). As you come to the corners, close the mitres with a few invisible stitches.
