How to make an inset cushion with mitred corners and piped edges

This is the method I used to make the Hibiscus Conservatory Cushion. The method is a tried and trusted one – provided that you work accurately and neatly it gives great results every time. The embroidery is set between four border pieces of fabric to make the front of the cushion. Matching piping to decorate the edge is made from the cushion fabric, but you could, if preferred, use ready-made piping. (See diagrams below)

You will need:
50cm (20in) furnishing fabric or velvet
Cushion pad 2.5–5cm (1-2in) larger than the finished cushion
2m (2yd) piping cord

1. All seam allowances are 1.25cm (0.5in). Measure the embroidery, decide its finished size, then choose the size of the finished cushion. Subtract the embroidery measurement from the finished cushion measurement, divide the result by two and add two seam allowances. This gives the width for the border pieces. The length of the border pieces is the finished cushion size plus two seam allowances. For the back, add two seam allowances to the finished cushion size.

2. Cut four border pieces and a back. Cut embroidery to required size plus 1.25cm (0.5in) seam allowances, centring the design carefully.

3. Find the midpoint of each edge by folding, and mark with a pin. Fold each border panel in half to find the centre point and mark with a pin. Pin the border panels to the embroidery, wrong sides together, matching centre points, leaving ends free. Machine stitch these seams. The stitching should meet exactly at the corners .

4. Fold embroidery in half diagonally, wrong sides together. Mitre the corners: stitch a line from the corner of the embroidery to the corner of the border panels (see diagram 1). Trim excess fabric on these seams and clip the corners.

5. Fold the other diagonal, mitre the other two corners. Press all seams from the right side .

6. To make the piping, cut bias strips of fabric 4cm (1.5in) wide, enough to go around the cushion. These strips must be cut on the true bias of the fabric at a 45 degree angle (see diagram 2). Stitch together enough bias strips to make the required length (see diagram 3). Fold the strip in half, wrong sides together, and, using the piping foot of your sewing machine, stitch the cord into the folded bias strip.

7. Using the piping foot, attach the piping to the outer edge of the right side of cushion front, as follows. Find the centre point of the bottom edge, mark with a pin. Attach piping from this point, matching piping edge to cushion front edge, leaving the end loose. Stitch the piping all round the cushion front, leaving final end loose. Clip the piping seam allowance at each corner to ease it round the corners.

8. To make a neat join in the piping, lay one open end over the other. Cut away the excesses leaving a 1.25cm (0.5in) seam allowance at each end. Unpick the piping stitching a little at each end and open out the bias so that you can make a seam. Trim the two ends of the cord so that they butt up to each other and insert them back into the tube of the piping. Finish the seam of the piping to the front across the joined piping. Lay the piped front right side up, place the back right side down over it and pin the seam, leaving an opening in the bottom edge. Stitch this seam, still using the piping foot (if you stitch from the top you will be able to follow the first stitching line, keep the piping tight and make sure no lines of stitching show on the outside of the cushion).

9. Turn the cushion right sides out and push in the cushion pad. I use a larger cushion pad so that the cushion is well filled right in to the corners. If you use the same size as your cushion the corners will seem empty and the cushion will look flat and not display your embroidery at its best. Slipstitch the opening.

Give the finished cushion a good beating to force the pad into the corners!