Cross Stitch Basics gives the most basic information of all, including advice for stitchers using evenweave fabric for the first time. Fabrics for counted cross stitch fall into two categories: aida and evenweave (including evenweave linen).
Aida is woven in regular blocks, and evenweave is woven in single threads. Once learnt, the simple technique of working with evenweave gives scope for using many more interesting stitches, and for stitching with fabrics such as linen. A basic guide to threads and fabrics is included below.
For more information, including 'Perfect Cross Stitch', go to CSG Members' Studio. To become a member, go to Join Us.
Stitch Basics
Where to start
If you need to check the thread count of a particular fabric, lay a ruler on top and, counting along the ruler using a needle, count the number of threads or blocks to 2.5cm (1 inch). Fold the fabric in four, press lightly and work a line of tacking stitches along the folds to mark the centre (remove these when the stitching is finished). Work a narrow hem around the fabric or overlock on the sewing machine to prevent fraying.
Check you have all the thread colours you need. Mount all the threads on a piece of card alongside their shade numbers. Thread your needle with the required number of strands and you are ready to go!
Cross stitch on aida fabric
For a complete stitch, bring the needle up through the fabric, at the bottom left of the stitch, cross one block of the aida fabric and insert the needle at the top right. Push the needle through, then bring it up at the bottom right-hand corner, ready to complete the stitch in the top left-hand corner. To work the adjacent stitch, bring the needle up at the bottom right-hand corner of the first stitch.
To make stitches in two journeys, work the first leg of the cross stitch as above, but instead of completing the stitch, work the adjacent half stitch and continue to the end of the row. The crosses are completed on the return journey. The one essential rule is that all the top stitches face the same direction.
Jane's tip
I always work my cross stitch in two journeys which is quicker, neater and produces single straight lines on the wrong side.
I work with the fabric in my hand and never work with a frame or embroidery hoop. I need my cross-stitch to be very portable (probably in my pocket), so a frame or hoop is out of the question. If you must use a hoop, please use one large enough to hold the complete design. Moving a hoop across your beautifully formed stitches is criminal!
Cross stitch on evenweave, including linen
To work a cross stitch on evenweave, follow the instructions for aida but work across two threads of the fabric instead of one block. When working on a single weave fabric (an evenweave such as linen), start stitching to the left of a vertical thread. This makes it easier to see when you have made a mistake in counting.
Stitching on evenweave fabric is no more difficult than stitching on aida - you only need to be able to count to two! In fact, working on 28-count linen gives the same design size as 14-count aida.
Knotless loop start
This method only works if you are stitching with an even number of strands, i.e. 2, 4, or 6 strands. Cut the stranded cotton (floss) into lengths roughly twice as long as you would normally use, and carefully separate one strand (or 2, or 3).
Double this strand and thread your needle with the two ends together. Pierce your fabric from the wrong side where you intend to place the first stitch, leaving the looped end at the back. Make the first stitch, taking the needle through to the back and passing it through the loop. The stitch and thread are now anchored.
How to finish
When a group of stitches or a length of thread is completed, finish off the end carefully before starting a new colour. At the back of the work, pass the needle under stitches of the same or similar colour and snip off the loose end close to the stitching. Don't leave small loose ends, which have a nasty habit of pulling through to the right side!
Needles and scissors
When working counted cross stitch you will need blunt tapestry needles of various sizes depending on your fabric. (A blunt needle because you are parting the threads of the fabric rather than piercing the material. You want to avoid splitting the fibres of the fabric.)
The most commonly-used tapestry needles for cross stitch are sizes 24 and 26. If you are not sure what size to choose, check in the following way. Push the needle through the fabric. It should pass through without enlarging the hole, but also without falling through.
Avoid leaving your needle in the fabric when it is put away, as it may leave a mark (unless it is gold-plated). The nickel plating on needles varies from source to source. If you are allergic to nickel try gold-plated needles.
Keep a small, sharp pair of pointed scissors exclusively for your stitching.
The CSG supplies high-quality needles and scissors.
Thread Basics
There are hundreds of different threads available to the stitcher, too many to list them all. The information below gives basic guidance for the new stitcher.
Stranded cotton
Stranded cotton (floss). Six-strand mercerised cotton, usually divided into its strands before stitching. Available in over 400 colourfast colours. Main manufacturers are Coats (Anchor), DMC and Madeira.
Perlé cotton
Perlé or perl is a non-divisible shiny cotton thread in several different thicknesses and colour ranges. It is often used for Hardanger embroidery.
Silk thread
Silk threads are available in a huge range of colours and types, from the large manufacturers and small specialist suppliers and dyers. More expensive than cotton, they are used when the sheen and/or fineness of silk are required.
There are also viscose threads with a very high sheen.
Metallic and blending threads
Available in a huge range of thicknesses, colours and types from companies such as Kreinik, Coats and DMC. They are usually used in combination with other threads to give a sparkle or shine.
Wool yarns
Twisted pure wool is used for canvaswork embroidery (often called tapestry). There are several makes, including Anchor Tapisserie wool (Coats), DMC Tapestry Wool and Appletons Tapestry Wool.
Fabric Basics
When Jane started stitching (in 1984) the choice of fabric was simple - cream 14-count aida or linen, bleached or unbleached. How things have changed.
From Chart to Fabric
All counted designs are made up of squares or parts of squares. The picture, pattern or motif is transferred to the fabric by matching the weave of the fabric to the squares of the pattern or chart. The design is transferred onto the fabric by counting the squares on the chart and matching them to the threads of the fabric (hence the name 'counted' cross stitch), so each stitch appears in the right place.
There are two main groups of fabric for counted embroidery: aida (woven in blocks) and evenweave (woven with single threads forming the warp and weft). All fabrics for counted embroidery are woven so that they have the same number of threads or blocks to 2.5cm (1in) in both directions, so the stitches will appear as squares or parts of squares.
Fabric for counted embroidery is bought by its thread count, which tells us its fineness. So, 14-count fabric has 14 blocks or threads to each 2.5cm (1in). The more threads or blocks to 2.5cm (1in), the finer the fabric.
Aida
This excellent cotton fabric is woven in blocks, giving obvious holes for the needle to enter, so it is ideal for the beginner.
Aida is available in 8, 11, 14, 16 and 18 blocks to 2.5cm (1in).
When stitching on aida, one block on the fabric corresponds to one square on the chart. Certain stitches (such as three-quarter stitch) are more difficult to form on aida than on evenweave.
Evenweave linen
This lovely, if slightly more expensive, fabric made from flax has been used for counted cross stitch for centuries. Linen has natural irregularities, which add to the charm of your stitching, and help to emulate the style of an antique piece. It is available in white, antique white, cream, raw or natural shades - and some gorgeous new colours, featured in our Linen Cupboard.
Stitching on linen is no more complicated than stitching on aida, but requires a different technique. To even out the irregularities, cross stitch is worked over two threads in each direction.
You could buy some linen today by visiting the Linen Cupboard in our Stitchers Market.
Zweigart Linda (evenweave)
Linda is similar to linen in appearance. Made from a mixture of cotton and synthetic fibres, it is ideal for products that need to be 'easy-care', such as baby clothes and table linens.
Stitching Paper
The Victorians loved stitching on perforated or punched paper, producing bookmarks, needlecases, pincushions, glove and handkerchief boxes, notebook covers and greeting cards.
Today's Stitching Paper is based as closely as possible on the early Victorian punched paper. It can be stitched, folded, glued and cut to make pretty cross stitch projects.
Email or call for information on this product.
